Brother pays tribute to ‘fiercely proud’ Dundonian foodie pioneer.

Anne Davidson, the founder of the legendary Champany Inn, died at the age of 79 and was credited with creating Scotland’s ‘greatest steak’.

Anne Davidson, a Dundee-born and reared restaurateur who rose to become one of Scotland’s most recognised and distinctive hospitality icons, died at the age of 79.

Anne, known simply as “Mrs D” to generations of diners and staff, was the driving force behind the legendary Champany Inn near Linlithgow, a Scottish culinary institution she founded and ran for almost 40 years.

But long before Champany became famous with Scotch meat, South African wine, and friendly, attentive service, Anne’s journey began in Dundee, a city she is still fiercely proud to call home.

“Our parents were a source of pride and inspiration to Anne,” her brother Graeme stated. “She inherited her mother’s strong work ethic, as evidenced by her smooth management of Champany’s restaurants and her family.

“Dundee has a very unique place in Anne’s heart. She was a very proud Dundonian.”

Former Dundee High School girl

Elizabeth Anne Soutar was born in 1946 as the second of four children to Dundee surgeon Mr Stanley Soutar and anaesthesiologist Dr Margaret Soutar. Anne attended Dundee High School and High Kirk, where she became a Brownie.

She also spent Christmas mornings with her family at Dundee Royal Infirmary, when her father carved the ward turkey for patients. Weekends were spent walking in Camperdown Park and climbing the Law, while summers were spent on caravan trips to Nethy Bridge or visiting family in Gullane.

These Dundee years, rich in family ritual and community, shaped Anne’s sense of hospitality and capacity to bring people together.

Anne left Dundee to study hospitality management at Robert Gordon’s Catering College in Aberdeen. She had already stated that food and service were her passion. Her first job at the Westminster Theatre in London exposed her to front-of-house labour, and it was there that she met her future husband, South African-born Clive Davidson. In 1969, they married in St Andrew’s Parish Church in Dundee on a snowy December day.

This was followed by a reception aboard HMS Unicorn, a ship that Anne had previously attended dances on. The couple relocated to South Africa immediately after their marriage. They returned to Scotland in 1974 to open the Wyndales House Hotel in Lanarkshire. It was there that they brought Braai-style charcoal grilling to Scotland. The indoor charcoal grill movement in Scottish restaurants was sparked by a far-sighted idea. They purchased The Beehive in Edinburgh’s Grassmarket in 1977, then in January 1983, they established the Champany Inn in Linlithgow.

How did Anne Davidson make the Champany so successful?

Champany was founded on Anne and Clive’s unwavering commitment to quality.

Sides of Scotch cattle were meticulously chosen at the abattoir, hung for at least 28 days on-site, then slaughtered in house.

Their speciality dishes, ranging from hot smoked salmon to their famous cheesecake, became favourites among regulars from all over the world. South African wines, which Anne and Clive brought home with them, were an integral element of the restaurant’s identity.

Champany expanded into a multifaceted hotel business under Anne’s guidance, including a fine dining steakhouse, 16 suites, the Chop & Ale House café, and a wine shop.

Its reputation attracted a steady stream of awards. These ranged from a Michelin star in 2008 to national titles including Restaurant of the Year at both the CIS Excellence Awards and the Food and Travel Awards.

It even featured among the 50 Best Restaurants in the World in Courvoisier’s Book of the Best.

Critics were consistent in their praise. Esquire’s John Lanchester wrote: “The best steak I’ve ever eaten is served at the Champany Inn… a truly outstanding restaurant.” Scotland on Sunday’s Richard Bath called it “one of our great culinary gems.”

But for all the accolades, Champany was Anne’s life’s work because of the people inside it.

Anne became known as ‘Mrs D’

Affectionately known as ‘Mrs D’, she was on the restaurant floor every service, greeting newcomers and regulars alike with her trademark: “Welcome to Champany.”

Her standards were exacting, her attention to detail absolute. Staff recall her immaculate fashion and her distinctive shoes “running the restaurant”. They also praise her instinct for making diners feel like guests in her home.

She cultivated what many businesses aspire to but few achieve: a genuine family culture.

Over more than four decades, generations of local families worked at Champany.

They were bound by loyalty to her leadership, humour and warmth.

Her love of food was matched by a love of travel. She especially loved Mallorca, South Africa and Burgundy, where she indulged her affection for French cuisine and, famously, for butter.

Even though she moved away from Dundee as an adult, her connection to the city remained strong.

Brother Graeme recalls her frequent visits while their parents were alive. Her father died in 1990, and her mother in 1993. Anne’s children were raised with a strong awareness of their Dundonian origin.

Anne, who died on November 18, is survived by her three children Jason, Anna, and Lucy, as well as her granddaughter Mirren.

The Champany remains open for business, with Anne’s son Jason currently in charge.

A private family funeral is now going place. A public memorial ceremony honouring her life will be held on Monday, February 16 at St Michael’s Church in Linlithgow.

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